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Ball Pythons
Description:
They are considered
to be gentle and curious snakes. They reach between 4 - 6 feet ( 1.2
- 1.5 meters ) with females growing larger. They reach sexual
maturity in three to five years. Female will lay 4 - 10 eggs and
remains with them without feeding until they hatch. The eggs hatch
after about 3 months. They will become active and explore at night,
and although they feel comfortable climbing staying high up in
branches is not their favorite activity. They prefer small tight
places where they can feel safe and comfortable.
Lifespan:
hey live on average
more than 25 years.
Diet:
In the wild they
eat amphibians, lizards, other snakes, birds and small mammals, but
in captivity feed mostly on mice and rats. Many people prefer
feeding their ball pythons frozen or prekilled rodents, but there is
also a large number that feed their snakes live food. In such case
the snake should never be left alone with the mice or rat. Leaving
it unsupervised may lead to the snake being bitten, severely injured
or even killed.
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Red Foots Tortoise
Life Span:
Red footed
tortoises live up to 50 years, possibly longer.
Size:
Red footed
tortoises often reach a length of 10-14 inches, although they can be
larger (16 inches or more). A slightly smaller "dwarf" variety is
also being sold, commonly called the cherry-head that only attains a
length of 10 - 12 inches as an adult. They can reach weights up to
30 pounds.
Feeding:
In the wild, red
footed tortoises are omnivores and eat a wider range of foods than
many other tortoises. It is important to not overfeed animal
protein, though; one very small serving of moistened low fat cat
food or lean meat (e.g. 1 ounce for a full grown red foot) every 1-2
weeks is enough. A variety of fresh leafy greens (dandelion greens,
endive, mustard greens, escarole; not lettuce, spinach or kale),
vegetables, and fruits should also be fed.
Housing:
Outdoors-This
species is tropical and prefers a humid climate. A sturdy
escape-proof enclosure can be provided, and a sprinkler or mister
can be used to increase the humidity if needed. A muddy wallow will
be used by this tortoise, as will a pan of water. An area densely
planted with vegetation provides a cool retreat.
Indoors-A large
enclosure is needed - 4 feet by 6 feet or larger. Cypress bark as a
substrate helps retain humidity, although paper will work and is
easy to clean. A UVA/UVB is necessary indoors, and the enclosure
should be heated, with a basking spot of 95 F (35 C) and a gradient
from about 80-90 F (27-32 C). Nightime temperatures can drop to
about 75 F (24 C). A pan of water should be provided and the
enclosure should be kept humid. A hide should be placeed at the cool
end of the enclosure.
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Savannah
Baby
Description:It
is a robust creature, with powerful limbs for digging, powerful jaws
and blunt, peglike teeth. Maximum size is rarely more than 100cm.
Diet:
Consisting mainly
of snails, milipedes, orthopterans, beetles and other invertebrates.
The only vertebrates regularly consumed are amphibians.
Environment:
Savannahs come from
the grassy plains (savannahs) of Africa. They like climbing areas
and swim less than the other monitors. They still need a large
“swimming pool.” When young, these monitors love climbing rocks,
loafing in the sun, and loafing in their water dish. Cat pans make
a practical size water dish for savannah monitors up to two or three
feet long.
Temperature:
Monitors demand 85o
or better during the day. Too cool temperatures make them
susceptible to disease. High temperatures speed up their
metabolism.
Security:
Savannah monitors,
especially the little guys, need a cave or piece of wood to hide in,
behind, or under. They squeeze into nearly any crevice. Those cork
caves work great for little ones.
Lighting:
Savannah monitors
need full-spectrum fluorescent lighting or daily sessions in real
sunlight. The closer they can climb to your bulbs, the better your
bulbs work.
Handling:
Savannah monitors
tame quite easily. The smallest ones are easiest to work with. If
you handle yours daily, he soon learns to adjust to you.
Lifespan:
10-15 years with
proper care.
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Uromastyx
General
Characteristics:
Some can be shy,
while others can be quite tame.
Social Behavior:
Most lizards are
territorial, which means that the male and sometimes the female will
defend an area from members of the same species, or even other
species. Often, in captivity, two male lizards will fight openly.
Even if aggression is not overt, the submissive male can be
adversely affected. Uromastyx males should always be housed
separately.
Caging:
Cages can consist
of glass aquariums, metal stock tanks, or wooden boxes. Sand, dirt,
and newspaper are often used for substrate. Utility mats can also be
used; these are inexpensive and convenient, because they can be
machine-washed when soiled. Rocks or other objects should be placed
in the cage to allow climbing and basking sites. Any heavy objects,
such as rocks, must be securely anchored, or the lizard will burrow
underneath--causing the rock to fall and crush it. Hide boxes
provide the animals with a sense of security, and are especially
important for gravid females.
Temperature:
These lizards are
adapted to hot desert conditions. The cage should have a daytime hot
basking spot where the temperature exceeds 120ºF. However, the
lizard must be able to retreat to areas in the low 90's.
Incandescent spotlights can provide hot basking spots. The wattage
selected depends upon the size of the cage. Nighttime temperatures
should be less that the daytime highs. Temperatures should be
allowed to drop into the mid 60's F.
Lighting:
Ultraviolet light
is believed to be important for most lizards. Unfiltered sunlight
(i.e. not through glass) is the best sources of ultraviolet light,
and lizards should always be exposed to sun whenever possible.
Diet:
Young animals will
more readily accept insects such as waxworms, crickets, and
superworms, which should be offered three or four times per week.
The following vegetables should be offered: kale, collard greens,
mustard greens, sweet potatoes, carrots, peas, corn, and green peas.
In addition, dandelion greens, alfalfa, grass, and flowers can be
added to the diet. Beans such as split peas, lentils, navy beans,
and others should also be provided. Some of these beans can be
sprouted prior to feeding. Bird seed should also be mixed in with
the salad. A reptile vitamin containing calcium should be sprinkled
on the salad, or sprayed on the lizard externally.
Lifespan:
Up to 35 years in
captivity. |
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Leopard
Gecko
Description:
The leopard gecko
is a cream to yellow colored lizard with black spots and/or stripes
similar to the markings of a leopard attaining a total length of 6
to 9 inches. However, selective breeding in captivity has produced
different color morphs, including high yellow, tangerine, striped,
patternless (no spots or stripes), lavender, blizzard (which are
solid white or gray), and albino (no black pigments in markings) in
addition to some captive specimens measuring 11 or more inches in
length.
Diet:
Leopard geckos are
primarily insectivorous, feeding on insects, spiders, crickets,
grubs, and worms. They will also eat smaller lizards, small snakes
(although rarely) and even pinky mice(baby mice) if the gecko is
large enough.
Lifespan:
The Leopard gecko
has a life span in captivity of 10 to 15 years.
Cage & Habitat:
An aquarium or
terraium with a screen top. The tank size should be about 10 gallons
per gecko. A lamp on one side of the tank for light during the day.
A heat pad on one side of the tank. Make sure the pad has time to
heat the substrate before getting your gecko. A hide box. One per
leopard gecko. A water dish, food bowl, and a calcium bowl. A
substrate for the bottom of the cage. |
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Baby
Corn Snakes
Description:
Their docile
nature, reluctance to bite, moderate adult size (1.2- 1.8 metres or
4–6 ft), attractive pattern, and comparatively simple care make them
excellent and popular pet snakes.
Lifespan:
They can live up to
15-25 years.
Habits:
Corn Snakes tend to
be quite secretive and are active mostly at night or during the
twilight hours. During the day they may be found hiding under loose
tree bark and beneath logs, rocks, and other debris. In colder
regions, snakes hibernate during winter. However, in the more
temperate climate along the coast they shelter in rock crevices and
logs during cold weather and come out on warm days to soak up the
heat of the sun. During cold weather, snakes are less active and
therefore hunt less.
Diet:
Corn Snakes have a
diet primarily consisting of rodents, mostly mice and rats which
they kill via constriction, but they are proficient climbers and may
scale trees in search of birds and bats. Frozen mice are usually
preferable, as live prey can possibly carry disease or injure the
snake if it has not been raised on live prey. Frozen newborn rat
pups intended for snakefood are known as "pinkies" in the pet food
trade, the larger pups are known as "fuzzies".
Housing:
Hatchling Corn
Snakes are often kept in a 5 to 10 gallon (19 to 38 L) aquarium or
similar-sized plastic tub. It is very important to have a housing
with absolutely no chance of escape. These snakes are excellent
escape artists and will often escape from their enclosure if not
properly fastened. The minimum recommended size of housing for an
adult is a 20 gallon (76 liter) tank. A 40 gallon (152 L) is a good
recommended size and will provide the adult snake room to move. Keep
in mind, however, that Corn Snakes will become stressed out in too
large a cage; it is a good idea to use plants and many hiding spots
in a large tank so that the snake will feel secure. |
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African
Tiger Leg
Description:
The tiger leg leaf
frog gets it’s name from the Asian tiger stripes all around it’s
legs. One may have taken its name from an African cat since its
markings look a lot like leopard skin.
Diet:
Small crickets are
the staple diet. They are dusted and offered after dark, during the
frogs active period.
Housing:
During the winter
months we house 6 to 8 adults per 40 gallon glass critter cage with
screen top. Paper towel is used as a substrate. A few plastic
broad leaf plants are placed in the cage. A small, shallow water
dish is provided at all times and lighting is from an 18 inch UVB
fluorescent reptile bulb fixture placed on the screen top. Our
frogs are lightly misted usually every other day. Temperatures are
kept at around 75 degrees at night up to 84 degrees during the day.
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 Tomato
Frog
Description:
When threatened, a
tomato frog puffs up its body. If a predator grabs a tomato frog in
its mouth, the frog's skin secretes a thick substance that gums up
the predator's eyes and mouth, causing the predator to release the
frog to free up its eyes. The gummy substance contains a toxin that
occasionally causes allergic reactions in humans. The allergic
reaction will not kill a human and the frog secretes it only when
frightened. Females are larger than males and can reach 4 inches in
length. Males can reach 2 to 3 inches in length.Most females range
from reddish-orange bright dark red. The bellies are usually more
yellowish, and sometimes there are black spots on the throat.
Lifespan:
The lifespan of the
Tomato Frog can be from 6 to 8 years.
Diet:
Adult frogs should
be fed every other day. They will eat large crickets, meal worms,
meal worm beetles, earthworms, small pinkie mice and fly larvae.
Adults can eat from 9 - 12 crickets in one feeding. Young frogs
should be fed every day. They will eat small crickets, fruit flies,
small sow bugs (pill bugs ) and freshly shed small meal worms.
Housing:
Up to 3 adult
Tomato Frogs can be housed in a 15 gallon aquarium with a screen
top. Tomato Frogs are ground dwelling amphibians that do not climb
well. When looking for an enclosure, floor space is more important
than height. |
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Poison
Dart Frog
Description:
Most poison dart
frogs have brightly colored skin which is used as a warning sign to
predators. These frogs can be very small, ranging from one to six
centimeters in length, depending on the age, sex, and the species of
the frog. They are mostly common in tropical humid environments.
Poison dart frogs excrete alkaloid toxins through their skin. Most
species are not lethal to their predators, but rather taste foul
enough that frogs are released immediately. Dart frogs also do not
synthesize their poisons. The alkaloids are sequestered from prey
items, such as ants and mites. Because of this, captive bred animals
do not contain significant levels of toxin.
Lifespan:
Estimates range
from 3 to 15 years in the wild and up to 20 years in captivity.
Diet:
These frogs eat
ants, termites, small beetles, house crickets, fruit flies, spring
tails, wax worms, spiders and other small invertebrates. |
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Hermit
Crabs
Description:
Most species of
hermit crabs have long soft abdomens which are protected from
predators by the adaptation of carrying around a salvaged empty
seashell, into which the whole crab's body can retract. Most
frequently hermit crabs utilize the shells of sea snails, marine
gastropod mollusks. Hermit crabs live in the wild in colonies of 100
or more, and do not thrive in smaller numbers.
Lifespan:
Hermit crabs
potentially may live 10-30 years with proper care.
Diet:
It is also smart to
feed your hermit carrots which helps maintain their exoscheletons.
But be careful of how much you feed them because you might turn them
orange! They eat both plant and animal materials. Commercial hermit
crab diets available are considered appropriate for feeding your
hermit crab. Do not overfeed your hermit crabs and removed any
spoiled or moldy food. Offer some fresh vegetables and fruits as
treats, but remove any uneaten portions by the next day to prevent
spoilage.
Cage Setup:
Consider a
10-gallon size tank as a decent size enclosure for a couple of small
individuals; larger cages are necessary when keeping multiple
animals. Also, keep in mind the size of the hermit crabs themselves.
The larger the hermit crab(s) you get the larger the overall setup
needed per animal to ensure there is enough territory space for all
to be happy. If you have multiple mediums or just a couple of large
individuals, it may be necessary to house your crabs in a 20 or
30-gallon long size tank. Wire cages are not suitable habitats for
hermit crabs unless you live in a very warm and humid region such as
Florida. It is important to make sure your hermit crab's cage has a
secure lid to prevent escapes. |
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Iguana
2'
Physical
characteristics:
The two species of
lizard within the genus Iguana possesses a dewlap, a row of spines
running down their back to their tail, and a third eye on their
head. Behind their neck are small scales which resemble spikes,
known as tuberculate scales. They also have a large round scale on
their cheek known as a subtympanic shield.
Sight:
Iguanas have
excellent vision and can see long distances, shapes, shadows, color
and movement. An iguana uses its eyes to navigate through winding
trees and confusing forests, as well as finding food.
Lifespan:
20+ years in
captivity.
Diet:
Primarily
herbivores, iguanas are active during the day, feeding on leaves,
flowers, and fruit.
Descriptions:
Averaging around
6.5 feet (2 meters) in length and weighing about 11 pounds (5
kilograms). They generally live near water, and are excellent
swimmers. If threatened, they will leap from a branch, often from
great heights, and escape with a splash to the water below. They are
also tough enough to land on solid ground from as high as 40 feet
and survive. |
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Fat
Tail Gecko
Fat Tail Gecko-
Description:
Their habitat is
dry and arid, although they will spend most of their time in a dark,
humid hiding place. The Fat-tailed gecko will grow to be 6 to 10
inches. Females being 6 to 8 inches, and males being 8 to 10 inches.
The normal coloring is brown and tan stripes, with a possible thin
white stripe along the length of the back. The under belly is pale
pink or off-white. The Fat-tailed gecko is equipped with the natural
defense of being able to lose their tails when attacked by a
predator. The tail is also where they store their fat, an important
energy reserve.
Lifespan:
They will live 15
to 20 years.
Diet:
It is important
that water is available at all times. They will often drink from
water droplets on logs and plants, but will also drink from standing
water regularly. A shallow water dish which is hard to tip over and
easy to clean is ideal. It is also an idea to have a bowl which does
not have small crevices and cracks in it, which mould can build up
in, and small insects can hide in. Fat tail geckos are primarily
insectivorous, feeding on insects. Meal worms, wax worms, phoenix
worms and crickets are all suitable food items. However certain
foods such as meal worms and wax worms should be limited. It is
important that the food you give your gecko is as highly nutritious
as possible. Gut-loading and dusting crickets will help ensure your
geckos health. Hatchling or juvenile fat tail geckos should be fed
on a daily basis. They will eat up to around 8-12 small crickets or
similar insects. These insects should be either crickets or locusts,
and should be no larger than the width of the gecko's mouth. Wax
worms can be offered in small quantities once a week, and mealworms
can also be offered in small quantities twice a week. Adults can be
fed less regularly, 2 or 3 times a week. They should eat around 8
insects at a time, but obviously these should be larger insects,
approximately the size of the gecko head. It is important the food
is not too small for the gecko not to be interested, and also
important for it not to be too big for it to become hard to swallow.
Housing:
For a single or
pair of fat tail geckos, a 10 gallon terrarium with a lid will be
ample room. If you would like a trio (1 male and 2 females), than a
20 long terrarium would be required with at least 3-4 hiding places.
All glass cages work best with fat tails, melamine and wood can peel
and rot due to the higher humidity requirements for these geckos. |
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Bearded
Dragons
Diet:
Baby bearded
dragons require a lot o food to support their rapid growth rate.
Between the first 3-6 weeks, feed your baby dragon about 2-3 times a
day. Cricket, veggies, and greens can be used while watering can be
done once or twice daily. It is rule of thumb that the food you will
feed them must be about half the size as the distance between his
eyes.
Housing:
The recommended
size is a 10 gallon aquarium for a newly hatched dragon, while a 20
gallon tank is needed in the next six months due to your baby
dragon's speedy growth. When your bearded dragon reaches adulthood,
the size should be changed to a 50 gallon tank to provide enough
space for basking, exercise and growth.
Temperature:
Provide temperature
control in your baby dragon's tank. This can be done by using a
temperature gradient. There should a spot warm enough for the baby
dragon to bask and lie in and there should be a spot humid enough to
answer to the dragon's need for water. Baby bearded dragons need
water both as a drink and in the air to aid their growth in the
first months of their life. Lack of humidity in the air can actually
cause your baby dragon to shed.
Lighting:
Provide UV light.
The light should imitate the one given off by the sun as this helps
in your baby dragon's digestion. Working in a way much like
photosynthesis, UV light encourages healthy digestion in your
dragon.
Handeling:
Handle your dragon
daily. This will develop their trust towards humans and build their
bond with you. Just make sure that you are gentle in handling them
and that you never pick them up them up with their tail. They
dislike this and will make them thrash about, which is harmful for
your baby dragon. You may choose to scoop them up with your cupped
hands.
Descriptions:
Bearded Dragons
have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults
reaching approximately 18 to 24 inches head-to-tail.
Lifespan:
Dragons live about
10-15 years with proper care in captivity, though some can live up
to 20 years old.
Personality:
Bearded Dragons are
known, according to many owners, to be very docile and trusting, yet
at the same time, outgoing and curious lizards. |
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Red
Tail Boa
Description:
Red-tail boas top
out at a theoretical 12 feet. We usually see adults that average 6
to 8 feet long.
Lifespan:
On average 20 - 30
years.
Housing:
Select an enclosure
especially designed for housing snakes, such as those with the
combination fixed screen/hinged glass top. All snakes are escape
artists; Boas are especially powerful and can easily break out of a
tank sealed with a board and a couple of bricks. A good starter tank
for a hatchling is a 20 gallon tank. After the first couple of
years, you will have to build your own enclosure out of wood and
glass or Plexiglas or purchase a tank made by producers of large
reptile enclosures.
Diet:
Allow your snake to
acclimate for a couple of weeks to its new home. Start your
hatchling off with a single pre-killed week to 10-day old "fuzzy"
rat. A smaller sized hatchling may require a small mouse. Larger
Boas may be fed larger pre-killed rats. The rule of thumb is that
you can feed prey items that are no wider than the widest part of
the snake's body. While Boas will often gladly eat prey that is
actually too large for it, they will generally regurgitate the prey
item one or more days later. Keep a bowl of fresh water available at
all times. Your snake will both drink and soak, and may defecate, in
it. Check it often and change it as needed. A warm bath in your
bathtub will also be welcomed just before your Boa is ready to shed. |
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Jackson
Chameleons
Description:
These are small to
medium sized chameleons. Their adult size is 12 inches (30 cm) in
total length. They have a saw-tooth shaped dorsal ridge. There is no
gullar crest. They attain maturity after five months. The colouring
is usually bright green, with some individual animals having traces
of blue and yellow, but like all chameleons it changes quickly
depending on mood, health, and temperature.
Diet:
Jackson's
chameleons live primarily on a diet of small insects. Commercially
raised insects such as crickets or Madagascan roaches may be fed
daily. Occasionally you may want to feed wax worms or mealworms. It
is important to vary the diet because chameleons can become bored
with the same diet and may refuse to eat if fed the same diet over a
period of time. The babies may be fed pinhead crickets and fruit
flies. The babies should be misted four to five times a day. All
insects should be dusted before being fed and just like the adults
the young should be provided a basking spot and this may be achieved
with a clamp lamp and a sixty watt bulb over the enclosure.
Lifespan:
The lifespan is
variable, with males generally living longer than females. |
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Yellow
Belly Turtle
Description:
Male 5 to 8" long,
Female 8" to 13" long.
Lifespan:
up to 38 years in
captivity.
Diet:
Yellow bellied
sliders are omnivorous, eating aquatic plants, fish, insects and
carrion, although adult females are largely herbivorous and young
and adult males are more carnivorous. In captivity, you can use
small feeder fish as well as commercially bred insects such as meal
worms, wax worms and crickets as treats. Commercial turtle food and
chopped vegetables round out a nutritionally complete diet along
with the treats.
Housing:
Air Temperature:
Low to Mid 80's. Basking Temperature: High 80's to Low 90's. Water
Temperature: Mid 70's. Use an aquarium no smaller than 15 gallons
for HATCHLINGS. 1 adult YBS should be kept in a 60gallon aquarium
and up. Add an additional 20 gallons per turtle. Use a good
filtration system, preferably an external canister filter. These
turtles like to bask, so provide a fair sized basking spot.
Recommended size for a single adult Yellow Bellied slider - 60
Gallons. For a Trio, definently 150gallons and up. |
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Rose
Hair Tarantula
Description:
Rose hair
tarantulas are a fairly slow growing species, taking up to 4 years
to reach maturity. Adults will range in size, but the average leg
span is 4 to 5 inches, with the occasional female getting slightly
larger.
Lifespan:
As with all
tarantulas, females outlive their male counterparts considerably.
When males reach sexual maturity (indicated by the presence of
physical sexual characteristics after a final molt) their life is
nearly over. Unfortunately males of this species seldom live more
than 4 or 5 years. Females however, can easily live to be 15 years
old, and 20 year old rose hairs are not unheard of.
Diet:
A small, shallow
water dish should always be present. Some sources indicate that
standing water is not necessary, as the tarantulas will ignore it.
Rose hair tarantulas will eat a wide variety of invertebrate prey,
as well as the occasional pinky mouse. Crickets, mealworms, waxworms,
and roaches should all be included in a balanced diet for this
species. Additional supplementation of the prey items is not
required, but the food items should be gut-loaded prior to being fed
off. These tarantulas will eat 3 to 5 large crickets a week, or a
similar amount of other prey items. Food should be offered at least
twice a week, and uneaten prey should be removed after 24 hours.
Some rose hairs will eat more, and some will eat less. It is not
uncommon for them to gorge themselves for several feedings and then
to fast for up to a month.
Housing:
Small plastic
“Kritter keepers” and 2 to 5 gallon glass terrariums are ideal.
Glass enclosures are more desirable due to the ease of heating them
during cooler months. Lighting is not necessary for tarantulas. In
fact, most species shun bright light, and are more likely to be
observed doing natural behaviors if the lighting is gentle and dim.
Rose hair tarantulas do best when kept around 80 degrees, but a few
degrees warmer or cooler is fine. If the room where you intend to
keep your pet is cooler than this, then the use of an under tank
heat pad is recommended.
Handeling:
Many people do
handle their rose hair tarantulas, and as long as it is done
carefully, respectfully, and infrequently, no harm will come to the
animal.
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Pac Man
Frogs
Description:
Can grow to 8
inches. The females are larger than the males.
Lifespan:
Normally around 6
years. Have lived up to 12 years in captivity.
Diet:
Not real picky. If
it moves, Pac Man frogs will try to eat it. If it will fit in their
cavernous mouth, they will swallow it. For this reason, we prefer
to use smaller gravels or sand as a substrate, since they eat gravel
when eagerly grabbing their prey. They can pass the smaller gravel
through their digestive system more easily. Most try to spit out
any gravel accidentally ingested. Others try to scrape it out with
their front feet. And remember, Pac Mans eat other Pac Mans. You
can dust their crickets or earthworms. If you feed them an
occasional goldfish or small rodent, you probably don’t need
supplements. Provide enough water to keep your frog wet (or at least
moist).
Housing:
Room temp okay 80
or better. Most Pac Man frogs appear on the market about the size of
a quarter -- some as small as a nickel. Within half a year, they
can grow to 5 or 6 inches. Give them a 10-gallon tank. Since they
cannot jump very far because of their heavy weight, you will not
need a cover.
Handling:
Handle your Pac Man
frog as little as possible |
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